According to winning-homebrew.com; Porter is one of the beer styles in which many beer enthusiasts know the history. It is well documented in books and online. There is some controversy, however, as to the authenticity of some of its published history. Most of the controversy comes from the most widely quoted source by a writer named John Feltham. In 1802 he wrote about the history of Porter and based it on a letter written by Obadiah Poundage, a pen-name for a London brewer in the 1760’s who wrote a letter in the London Chronicle arguing for an increase in the price of beer. It seems that Feltham was unfamiliar with the brewing terminology of the 18th century, and probably misinterpreted some of the text. Feltham claimed that a brewer named Harwood made one beer which “simulated” the flavors of a blend of three different beers (brown or pale ale, mild ale and “stale” or well-aged and matured ale, often called Three Threads). The new beer was called Entire, or Entire Butt, which would have meant “the entire barrel” or in American terms, “everything but the kitchen sink”. One problem with this account is that no other writer before Feltham has ever said that the new Entire or Porter, was made to replicate the “three threads”.
It seems more likely that Porter is just an evolution of the brown beers that were already being made in England for centuries. Prior to 1700, most brewers in London would brew and then send out their green beer to be aged by the publican or dealers. But tastes changed and Porter became the first beer to be aged in the brewery. And with the industrial revolution at hand, Porter was the first beer that was made on a large scale. Several porter brewers made fortunes.
Up until around 1800, all London Porter was aged in large (read gigantic) vats for between 6 to 18 months before being siphoned to smaller casks for delivery to the pubs. The demand for Porter soon began to outstrip the supply. Some enterprising publicans found that they didn’t have to use all “aged” Porter in their pours. They could mix the highly matured beer with two parts fresh or “mild” Porter to produce a beer of very similar flavor to that of the “aged” beer. As time wore on in the 19th century, tastes again changed and Porters were more and more often sold “mild”. Many discontinued making Porter all together as lagers and pale ales took their place in the brewery.
Porters were made entirely out of brown malt prior to the advent of hydrometers and thermometers. Once the hydrometer began being used by the brewers, they quickly noticed that brown malt would yield only about 2/3 as much fermentable sugar as pale malt. And with higher taxation to pay for the Napoleonic War, brewers had an incentive to use less malt. London brewers soon began mixing pale and brown malts to increase yield and profits. But in 1816 England passed a purity law which allowed only malt and hops in the beers sold there. It just happens that in 1817 Daniel Wheeler of Charles Street, Drury Lane designed and began using a roaster, similar to a coffee roaster, which would roast malt without burning it. He named the new malt “patent malt” or black patent. Brewers could now use up to 95% pale malt and 5% patent malt to create a palatable product much cheaper than before.
Because of the huge popularity of Porters, brewers made them in a variety of strengths. The beers with higher gravities were called “Stout Porters”. Of the stout porters being produced, the lightest, at around 1.066 OG were simply called Single Stout Porter, often designated by a single “X” on the label. Double Stout Porter (of which Guinness is an example) came in at 1.072 OG and had two “XX” on the label. The Triple Stout Porter came in at 1.078 OG and Imperial Stout Porter began at 1.095 OG and went up from there. As time passed, the suffix “Porter” was dropped and these beers were called Stouts. British brewers continued using the term Porter to designate both Porters and Stouts.
During the first World War, grain shortages in England led to restrictions on the roasting of dark malts and on the production of strong beer. With less restrictions, Irish brewers like Guinness took advantage of the lack of competition and began to dominate the bottled Stout market even though English brewers continued to brew draught stouts through the second World War. Guinness continued brewing their Porter up until 1974 when it was discontinued. Stouts grew into their own style but there is still division and debate on whether Stouts should be a separate style from Porter. Usually the only deciding factor is strength.
After the invention of black patent malt, Irish brewers discontinued the use of brown malt altogether, using only pale malt and black patent for color and flavor. English brewers, however, continued using brown malt in their grain bills for a while, differentiating the Irish Stouts and Porters from the English versions.
With the rise of pale ales and clear lagers, Porter’s hold on the brewing industry declined sharply. Porters, as a style, became pretty much nonexistant. During the craft beer movement in the US, homebrewers, microbreweries and brewpubs brought back the style. Modern Porters are usually brewed with pale malt, black malt, crystal, and chocolate malts for character and color.
There are three sub-categories of Porter listed by the 2008 BJCP Style Guidelines. These are:
12. PORTER
12A. Brown Porter
Aroma: Malt aroma with mild roastiness should be evident, and may have a chocolaty quality. May also show some non-roasted malt character in support (caramelly, grainy, bready, nutty, toffee-like and/or sweet). English hop aroma moderate to none. Fruity esters moderate to none. Diacetyl low to none.
Appearance: Light brown to dark brown in color, often with ruby highlights when held up to light. Good clarity, although may approach being opaque. Moderate off-white to light tan head with good to fair retention.
Flavor: Malt flavor includes a mild to moderate roastiness (frequently with a chocolate character) and often a significant caramel, nutty, and/or toffee character. May have other secondary flavors such as coffee, licorice, biscuits or toast in support. Should not have a significant black malt character (acrid, burnt, or harsh roasted flavors), although small amounts may contribute a bitter chocolate complexity. English hop flavor moderate to none. Medium-low to medium hop bitterness will vary the balance from slightly malty to slightly bitter. Usually fairly well attenuated, although somewhat sweet versions exist. Diacetyl should be moderately low to none. Moderate to low fruity esters.
Mouthfeel: Medium-light to medium body. Moderately low to moderately high carbonation.
Overall Impression: A fairly substantial English dark ale with restrained roasty characteristics.
History: Originating in England, porter evolved from a blend of beers or gyles known as “Entire.” A precursor to stout. Said to have been favored by porters and other physical laborers.
Comments: Differs from a robust porter in that it usually has softer, sweeter and more caramelly flavors, lower gravities, and usually less alcohol. More substance and roast than a brown ale. Higher in gravity than a dark mild. Some versions are fermented with lager yeast. Balance tends toward malt more than hops. Usually has an “English” character. Historical versions with Brettanomyces, sourness, or smokiness should be entered in the Specialty Beer category (23).
Ingredients: English ingredients are most common. May contain several malts, including chocolate and/or other dark roasted malts and caramel-type malts. Historical versions would use a significant amount of brown malt. Usually does not contain large amounts of black patent malt or roasted barley. English hops are most common, but are usually subdued. London or Dublin-type water (moderate carbonate hardness) is traditional. English or Irish ale yeast, or occasionally lager yeast, is used. May contain a moderate amount of adjuncts (sugars, maize, molasses, treacle, etc.).
Vital Statistics:
OG: 1.040 – 1.052
IBUs: 18 – 35 FG: 1.008 – 1.014
SRM: 20 – 30 ABV: 4 – 5.4%
Commercial Examples: Fuller’s London Porter, Samuel Smith Taddy Porter, Burton Bridge Burton Porter, RCH Old Slug Porter, Nethergate Old Growler Porter, Hambleton Nightmare Porter, Harvey’s Tom Paine Original Old Porter, Salopian Entire Butt English Porter, St. Peters Old-Style Porter, Shepherd Neame Original Porter, Flag Porter, Wasatch Polygamy Porter
12B. Robust Porter
Aroma: Roasty aroma (often with a lightly burnt, black malt character) should be noticeable and may be moderately strong. Optionally may also show some additional malt character in support (grainy, bready, toffee-like, caramelly, chocolate, coffee, rich, and/or sweet). Hop aroma low to high (US or UK varieties). Some American versions may be dry-hopped. Fruity esters are moderate to none. Diacetyl low to none.
Appearance: Medium brown to very dark brown, often with ruby- or garnet-like highlights. Can approach black in color. Clarity may be difficult to discern in such a dark beer, but when not opaque will be clear (particularly when held up to the light). Full, tan-colored head with moderately good head retention.
Flavor: Moderately strong malt flavor usually features a lightly burnt, black malt character (and sometimes chocolate and/or coffee flavors) with a bit of roasty dryness in the finish. Overall flavor may finish from dry to medium-sweet, depending on grist composition, hop bittering level, and attenuation. May have a sharp character from dark roasted grains, although should not be overly acrid, burnt or harsh. Medium to high bitterness, which can be accentuated by the roasted malt. Hop flavor can vary from low to moderately high (US or UK varieties, typically), and balances the roasted malt flavors. Diacetyl low to none. Fruity esters moderate to none.
Mouthfeel: Medium to medium-full body. Moderately low to moderately high carbonation. Stronger versions may have a slight alcohol warmth. May have a slight astringency from roasted grains, although this character should not be strong.
Overall Impression: A substantial, malty dark ale with a complex and flavorful roasty character.
History: Stronger, hoppier and/or roastier version of porter designed as either a historical throwback or an American interpretation of the style. Traditional versions will have a more subtle hop character (often English), while modern versions may be considerably more aggressive. Both types are equally valid.
Comments: Although a rather broad style open to brewer interpretation, it may be distinguished from Stout as lacking a strong roasted barley character. It differs from a brown porter in that a black patent or roasted grain character is usually present, and it can be stronger in alcohol. Roast intensity and malt flavors can also vary significantly. May or may not have a strong hop character, and may or may not have significant fermentation by-products; thus may seem to have an “American” or “English” character.
Ingredients: May contain several malts, prominently dark roasted malts and grains, which often include black patent malt (chocolate malt and/or roasted barley may also be used in some versions). Hops are used for bittering, flavor and/or aroma, and are frequently UK or US varieties. Water with moderate to high carbonate hardness is typical. Ale yeast can either be clean US versions or characterful English varieties.
Vital Statistics:
OG: 1.048 – 1.065
IBUs: 25 – 50 FG: 1.012 – 1.016
SRM: 22 – 35 ABV: 4.8 – 6.5%
Commercial Examples: Great Lakes Edmund Fitzgerald Porter, Meantime London Porter, Anchor Porter, Smuttynose Robust Porter, Sierra Nevada Porter, Deschutes Black Butte Porter, Boulevard Bully! Porter, Rogue Mocha Porter, Avery New World Porter, Bell’s Porter, Great Divide Saint Bridget’s Porter
12C. Baltic Porter
Aroma: Rich malty sweetness often containing caramel, toffee, nutty to deep toast, and/or licorice notes. Complex alcohol and ester profile of moderate strength, and reminiscent of plums, prunes, raisins, cherries or currants, occasionally with a vinous Port-like quality. Some darker malt character that is deep chocolate, coffee or molasses but never burnt. No hops. No sourness. Very smooth.
Appearance: Dark reddish copper to opaque dark brown (not black). Thick, persistent tan-colored head. Clear, although darker versions can be opaque.
Flavor: As with aroma, has a rich malty sweetness with a complex blend of deep malt, dried fruit esters, and alcohol. Has a prominent yet smooth schwarzbier-like roasted flavor that stops short of burnt. Mouth-filling and very smooth. Clean lager character; no diacetyl. Starts sweet but darker malt flavors quickly dominates and persists through finish. Just a touch dry with a hint of roast coffee or licorice in the finish. Malt can have a caramel, toffee, nutty, molasses and/or licorice complexity. Light hints of black currant and dark fruits. Medium-low to medium bitterness from malt and hops, just to provide balance. Hop flavor from slightly spicy hops (Lublin or Saaz types) ranges from none to medium-low.
Mouthfeel: Generally quite full-bodied and smooth, with a well-aged alcohol warmth (although the rarer lower gravity Carnegie-style versions will have a medium body and less warmth). Medium to medium-high carbonation, making it seem even more mouth-filling. Not heavy on the tongue due to carbonation level. Most versions are in the 7-8.5% ABV range.
Overall Impression: A Baltic Porter often has the malt flavors reminiscent of an English brown porter and the restrained roast of a schwarzbier, but with a higher OG and alcohol content than either. Very complex, with multi-layered flavors.
History: Traditional beer from countries bordering the Baltic Sea. Derived from English porters but influenced by Russian Imperial Stouts.
Comments: May also be described as an Imperial Porter, although heavily roasted or hopped versions should be entered as either Imperial Stouts (13F) or Specialty Beers (23).
Ingredients: Generally lager yeast (cold fermented if using ale yeast). Debittered chocolate or black malt. Munich or Vienna base malt. Continental hops. May contain crystal malts and/or adjuncts. Brown or amber malt common in historical recipes.
Vital Statistics:
OG: 1.060 – 1.090
IBUs: 20 – 40 FG: 1.016 – 1.024
SRM: 17 – 30 ABV: 5.5 – 9.5%
Commercial Examples: Sinebrychoff Porter (Finland), Okocim Porter (Poland), Zywiec Porter (Poland), Baltika #6 Porter (Russia), Carnegie Stark Porter (Sweden), Aldaris Porteris (Latvia), Utenos Porter (Lithuania), Stepan Razin Porter (Russia),
Be sure to check out the Brewing network’s Brewing with Style / The Jamil Show for information & recipes for these styles:
